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Unzipped: How to.. Break the rules in your modern oxford


I’m starting to think that this season you’ll be hard-pressed not to find your fair share of reworked staples. Last week, I reflected on my love of all things trench, and I’m still clinging to my preppy roots by shaking things up with a twist on the classic oxford. Any time a piece originates as menswear and transitions into something basically unisex, there’s a lot of room for interpretation. This season, I’m quite thankful for it, and I think you will be too.

There were clear signs of this trend taking hold on many of the Spring 2017 runways. One of the new leaders of unconventional, Virgil Abloh at Off-White, stood out by opening his show with a series of reimagined poplin shirts. Whether its off-the-shoulder, ruffled or tied, this refreshing take on common workwear speaks to the new up and coming faces that are redefining femininity on all fronts. Meanwhile, the duo at Monse brought the classic sophistication of their Oscar de la Renta roots to the surface, combined with a genuine understanding of the what all fashionable women really want: effortlessness. Draping was an essential component throughout the collection, along with deconstructed sleeves and trendy striping, this new wave in shirting feels like a much needed liberation from the norm.

So how do we make these runway dreams a reality? Let’s start with the coolness that is Jacquemus and their one-shoulder top. The added knit detail is wrapped skillfully around the upper torso to create the illusion of layering while bringing an unexpected style element. If you’re feeling a more relaxed silhouette, loose ruffles at Palmer//Harding and oversized asymmetry by Loewe would be options worth exploring. If you’re updating your office looks, pumped up sleeves courtesy of Simone Rocha and Marc Jacobs stand out as workwear favorites that extend well beyond spring. Lately I’ve been especially partial to basically anything with a waist-tie, wrap or otherwise. So, I have to mention the one piece that first inspired this post from Yohji Yamamoto Regulation. The pointed-hem, waist-tie and contrasting buttons come together masterfully, while remaining a minimalist favorite. What’s not to love?

Normal can be rather boring, and change is inevitable. So, I can always appreciate when designers are willing to step outside of the box to broaden the scope of normalcy. I can’t imagine a time when oxfords and classic shirting techniques will ever be obsolete, but some slight modernizations are long overdue. Let’s do it like the boys, but better.


Brands we love: Jacquemus One-shoulder Striped Cotton/Ribbed-knit Top, Rejina Pyo “Billie” Cotton-chambray Shirt, Palmer//Harding “Poet” Patch-pocket Cotton Shirt, Yohji Yamamoto Regulation Tie-waist Pointed-hem Cotton Shirt, A.W.A.K.E. Wrap-effect Checked Cotton Shirt, Adeam Asymmetric Striped Twill Shirt, Simone Rocha Oversized Ruched Cotton-poplin Shirt, Bruno Cucinelli Cotton Oxford Wrap Shirt, Loewe Oversized Asymmetric Cotton-gauze Shirt, Marc Jacobs Cotton Oxford Shirt, MSGM Ruffled-trim Contrast-panelled Shirt, Off-White Off-the-shoulder Poplin Shirt, MM6 by Maison Margiela Point-collar Waist-belt Cotton Shirt

By Ariel Serano

Tags: Monse / Off-White / Oxford / retail / runway / Shirting / Spring 2017

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